A City of Contrasts: The Many Sides of Lisbon
From downtown cobbles to the Cascais coastline, we discover the best of all worlds in the Portuguese capital
Rua Augusta Arch
Europe is a treasure chest of cities ranging from the quiet and understated to the vibrant and glitzy. Lisbon firmly sits at the "cool" end of that scale. Unlike many of its neighbours, the Portuguese capital feels noticeably more laidback and slower-paced, like one of these cool cities from twenty years ago, but with all the mod cons of course.
It is hard not to fall in love with Lisbon; after all, how can you compete with a beautiful historic centre that dates back 3,000 years, colourful architecture, and rugged Atlantic beaches? Throw in over 300 days of sunshine per year and warm pastéis de nata (local custard tarts) on every corner, and the appeal is undeniable.
Downtown Charm
The centre of Lisbon is best explored on foot, with the occasional iconic tram to tackle the steeper hills. Since the narrow streets are largely cobbled, make sure you pack comfortable walking shoes. As you wander around, many of the historic gems are found tucked between local cafés and craft shops. To make the most of them, grab a Lisboa Card; for a small fee, it grants entry to 51 attractions and access to unlimited public transport. Essential stops include the São Jorge Castle to see the 11th century Moorish ruins; the rooftop of the Rua Augusta Arch; and the National Pantheon for its Baroque architecture and panoramic terrace.
São Jorge Castle
For a taste of the city, dive into the local restaurants. They take pride in their traditional seafood, especially sardines, clams, and shrimp, and keep an eye out for authentic petiscos (Portuguese tapas). From hidden tascas to riverside dining, Lisbon’s food scene blends rustic charm with contemporary flair, often paired with excellent local wines.
I highly recommend Zambeze restaurant near the castle. Perched high up, it serves a unique, homely fusion of Portuguese Beira region cuisine with a Mozambican twist; the fish in coconut milk and the duck curry are both sumptuous and moreish. Added to that, the Zambeze rooftop terrace has incredible views over the Tagus River and the city’s terracotta rooftops, making it perfect for a sunset cocktail.
Don’t miss the atmospheric neighbourhoods of Alfama and Baixa, where fado music can be heard on the streets and grand squares open up to the river. By evening, the area takes on a golden glow, with miradouros (viewpoints) offering postcard-worthy views of the city.
Belém’s UNESCO Treasures
The riverside district of Belém serves as a gateway to Portugal’s Age of Discovery. It is home to UNESCO World Heritage sites like the striking Jerónimos Monastery and the elegant Belém Tower. Between the riverside walks and world-class museums, make time for the famous Pastéis de Belém custard tarts. Down at the waterfront, you can soak up the atmosphere as yachts and dinghies sail out of the marina toward the sea.
Belém Tower
Beyond the main sights, stop by the contemporary MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology) for design inspiration and exhibitions, or pause in the leafy gardens around the Belém Cultural Centre. Nearby, the imposing Monument to the Discoveries showcases a tribute to Portugal’s seafaring past. It is an area where history and modern culture meet - perfect for slow afternoons.
Chic Cascais
Just 25 minutes from the city centre lies Cascais, an upscale town that perfectly blends its 19th century fishing village roots with sophisticated seaside luxury. Known as the "Portuguese Riviera," it was originally a summer retreat for local royalty. Today, it attracts an international crowd drawn to its relaxed lifestyle and year-round sun. Getting lost in its cobbled lanes is a joy, offering a breezy, holiday-vibe contrast to the city’s energy. Make sure you factor in time to visit the Condes de Castro Guimarães museum for it impressive art collection and gardens.
Outside of its polished marina and boutique-lined streets, Cascais opens out into a wilder Atlantic landscape. Follow the coastal path toward the dramatic cliffs of Boca do Inferno and watch the waves crash into the rock formations; or for a more tranquil time, the golden sands of Praia da Rainha offer a sheltered spot in the town centre, while nearby cycling routes stretch all the way out to Guincho’s surf beaches.
Colourful Palaces of Sintra
A daytrip to Sintra feels like stepping into a fairytale. The UNESCO World Heritage town is filled with romantic palaces, misty hills, and mystical gardens. Make sure you visit the vibrant Pena Palace, the gardens of Quinta da Regaleira (home to the famous Initiation Well), the historic Moorish Castle, and the beautifully tiled rooms of the National Palace.
If you have time, wander through the fern-filled paths of the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, where hidden viewpoints reveal vistas over forested hills and the Atlantic Ocean. Among the greenery, Monserrate Palace offers a quieter, equally enchanting alternative to the busier sites. After a day of exploring, settle into a local café to try a travesseiro pastry, Sintra’s own sweet specialty, while soaking up the town’s dreamy atmosphere.
Luxe Stays
For city chic: The Vintage in Lisbon is a retro five-star boutique hotel that masterfully pairs mid-century elegance with modern sophistication. Situated between Avenida da Liberdade and Príncipe Real, it exudes an old-school Mad Men vibe along with warm hospitality and attention to detail. While the lounge is a treasure trove of eclectic décor and vintage art, the guest rooms boast striking colour palettes and plush textures. Local touches abound, from swanky Claus Porto bath products to bespoke in-room drinks trolleys for DIY cocktails, and complimentary minibar treats. Savour contemporary Portuguese plates at Blue Bistrot, sip drinks on the V Rooftop Bar with its city vistas, or retreat to the downstairs spa, featuring a pool, sauna, and steam room.
For riverside views: Located on the banks of the Tagus in historic Belém, Hyatt Regency Lisboa balances modern luxury with local heritage. Its prime location puts iconic sites like the Jerónimos Monastery on your doorstep, while the city centre remains easily accessible. The 204 rooms and suites feature oak finishes and soft blues inspired by Portugal’s maritime history. My expansive top-floor suite came complete with a kitchen, lounge, and a private balcony. Experience local and global flavours at Viseversa, or head up to the Icon Rooftop Bar for superb views of the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge and a cool sunset atmosphere. For total relaxation, the Serenity – The Art of Wellbeing spa offers a comprehensive treatment menu, IV therapies, and large indoor pool.
Riverside views at Hyatt Regency Lisboa
For families: Sheraton Cascais Resort is an award-winning five-star sanctuary nestled in prestigious Quinta da Marinha. It offers a peaceful, nature-filled escape along the rugged western coast, just a short hop from Cascais and Lisbon. The resort’s 152 accommodations are designed for comfort; my premium deluxe suite was bright and airy, and featured a balcony overlooking the lush grounds. The culinary offerings are diverse, ranging from international staples at the Glass Terrace to inventive Japanese-Mediterranean fusion at Yakuza Cascais. Beyond the massive outdoor pool and pretty gardens, check out the spa’s hydrotherapy circuit, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploring.
For wellness: Longevity Senses Cascais Boutique Hotel & Clinic is a serene, adults-only haven overlooking the ocean. Dotted with citrus-toned villas and verdant gardens, this beautiful hotel offers a hybrid of immersive health programmes and luxurious relaxation, all while surrounded by nature. The facilities are top-tier, including saltwater and heated indoor pools, a high-tech gym, and a specialised clinic for advanced therapies. Signature wellbeing programmes like “Art of Detox” focus on long-term vitality and can be tailored to your specific goals. Your wellness journey continues at the wonderful Sea Senses restaurant, where Head Chef João Cruz serves vibrant, seasonal cuisine made from fresh, locally sourced ingredients.
Beachside relaxation at Longevity Senses Cascais Boutique Hotel & Clinic
Lisbon Travel Tips
The Lisboa card, the city’s official tourist card, is a cost-effective and stress-free way to enjoy the sites and public transport. They are widely recognised, easy to use, and often help to avoid long lines.
Elevate your evenings with a touch of tranquillity, I brought a Portuguese Sneferu candle in Ficus Purpurea to light on my balcony. It was the perfect way to unwind each night.
Pre-book airport transfers for a stress-free experience. I used Welcome Pickups, which provided seamless service and peace of mind. The friendly drivers even doubled as tour guides, pointing out landmarks, which helped me get oriented immediately.
